Last updated on September 25th, 2023 at 11:52 am
Photographing Varanasi is a visual journey that will unravel the mysteries of a city that has captured the imagination of travelers for centuries.
Welcome to a city that defies time and transcends boundaries – Varanasi. Nestled on the banks of the sacred Ganges River in northern India, this ancient city weaves a tapestry of tradition, spirituality, and vibrancy the likes of which you have not seen before.
Varanasi, often called the ‘City of Light,’ stands as one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. By some accounts, the city is older than 2500 years!
Exploring Varanasi
Etymology
The name “Varanasi” comes from the names of two tributaries of the holy river Ganga – Varuna which flows past the northern edge of the city and Assi, which is a smaller river that flows down the south of the city.
Its maze-like alleys, resplendent temples, and bustling riverfront ghats create an atmosphere that’s both enchanting and enlightening. Through the lenses of skilled photographers, you’ll witness the harmonious coexistence of ancient rituals and modern life, where every frame tells a story of the city’s rich cultural heritage.
Benaras is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together.
Mark Twain
Getting In
If you are planning to visit the city for the first time I recommend taking a train. The city is well connected with the rest of the country. Depending on your airport of entry to India you will find a connecting train that will take you to Varanasi Junction station. The gateway to India’s spiritual heart.
However, if you are in a hurry and just want to spend a day then I recommend taking a flight from any of the major airports in India.
Getting Around
As you embark on a rickshaw ride from the train station, through the meandering lanes and alleys of the city you will find yourself slowly getting sucked into a tapestry of sights, colors, scenes, and smell like nothing you have ever experienced.
Rickshaws are my preferred mode of transport when I am in the oldest part of the city, except where I can only walk. Walking is still recommended for the following reasons –
- You get more opportunities to explore the many serpentine alleyways.
- Walking gets you more opportunities for photographing Varanasi.
- Some of the more interesting places within the city are only accessible on foot.
- Some of the best hotels with the most scenic locations are accessible on foot.
I have been to Varanasi three times over the last decade and a half and the city has not failed to amaze me each time.
What to Photograph in Varanasi?
Varanasi’s streets, alleyways, and riverbanks (ghats as they are referred to commonly) are a never-ending source of imagery. If you are a street photographer or someone who loves exploring new cultures or traditions, Varanasi offers more than you can absorb in even seven days.
Looking for more photo ideas? Check out my Guide to Photographing Sikkim.
On my last visit, I got to see a lot of India. There is no place like it. And it’s so diverse — both the South and the North, that one cannot get to see all of it in a couple of weeks. But I found Varanasi absolutely staggering. I have never seen anything like it before. The city just spills into the river Ganges. It’s a holy place where people go to die. It’s really, really extraordinary!
Bradd Pitt
Varanasi, being the spiritual capital of India, you will come across hundreds of sadhus (monks) from all around the country who make it a point to come to Varanasi for an annual pilgrimage. They are men who have given up all worldly attachments and have committed their life to the pursuit of spiritualism.
Some are residents here. Many others come here for a few months before moving on to the next destination.
My Grandmother used to say, “God Teaches through Experience”. Traveling to India & Experiencing the colors, people and natural beauty has awakened a new understanding of myself, my Art & the Truths of the world.
Will Smith
If you are interested in photographing Varanasi sights and scenes it offers you more than one way to practice the rules of composition. And while you are at it, you can experiment by breaking those rules and pushing the boundaries of what’s possible.
One of the major attractions of the city is the majestic buildings that adorn each of the ghats. Some of these have been transformed into heritage hotels with rooms that give you a bird’s-eye view of the Ganga.
The Ganga Arati
This is one spectacle that you shouldn’t miss. Even if you are there for just one night, make sure that you leave everything else that you scheduled and be there at the Dashashwamedh Ghat just before sundown.
By sundown the entire place is filled with people from all walks of life, patiently waiting for the aarti to begin. It is a religious ritual that includes chanting of hymns, and the use of flowers, fire, and incense sticks for offering prayer to the river that is the lifeblood of millions.
I recommend that you be early at the ghat and get yourself a good spot so that you can get some great shots of the ritual.
Photographing Varanasi – Portraits
Varanasi is a street and portrait photographers’ paradise. You will find interesting personalities at every corner of the city – street food vendors, sadhus, rickshaw pullers, and auto drivers.
People are willing to smile and pose for the camera if you approach and tell them that you are a photographer.
However, do use discretion if someone says no, and understand when you are crossing the limits of someone’s privacy and personal space. Most people are willing to oblige and give you a picture but that does not mean that everyone will.
If you are visiting the city for the first time I recommend having a local guide with you or someone who understands the local culture and the local rules and will be able to guide you.
A local guide is also the best bet when you want to explore the places that are less explored.
You will also need a local guide to avoid getting into trouble for photographing around some high-security areas.
Portrait lens recommendations: Primes
DSLR:
- Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM
- Canon EF 85mm f/1.2L II USM
- Sigma 85mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art
- Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 85mm f/1.8G
- Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 85mm f/1.4G
- Canon EF 85mm f/1.4L IS USM
Mirrorless:
- Sony FE 85mm f/1.8
- Sigma 85mm f/1.4 DG DN Art
- Nikon NIKKOR Z 85mm f/1.2 S
- Canon RF 85mm f/1.2 L USM
- Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 GM
Apart from these, I have recommended some 70-200mm and some budget zooms which are great for portraits and other topics.
Take an Early Morning Boat Ride
This is another must-do in Varanasi. Be there at one of the ghats about 15 mins before sunrise. Negotiate a price for an hour of boat ride.
The best option is to negotiate an hour of excursion along the most picturesque ghats.
There are a total of 84 ghats in Varanasi. Except for two all the others are used for bathing and many are used for religious purposes.
There is no better way to experience Varanasi and the intricate tapestry of culture, spiritualism, and faith than by taking an early morning boat ride along the Ganga.
Your best options for a couple of good lenses are the 70-200mm f/2.8 and the 24-70mm f/2.8. Most major lens manufacturers make several versions of this focal length.
Recommended 70-200mm lenses:
- Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 70-200mm f/2.8E FL ED VR
- Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS III USM
- Sony FE 70-200mm f/2.8 GM OSS II
- Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 DG OS HSM Sports
Recommended 24-70mm lenses:
- Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM
- Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8 DG OS HSM Art
- Sony FE 24-70mm f/2.8 GM II
- Nikon NIKKOR Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S
- Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-70mm f/2.8E ED VR
If you would like to try a budget option you can try the f/4 versions of the above focal length.
Among the budget lenses, you can try the following for photographing Varanasi’s sights and scenes:
- Nikon AF-P NIKKOR 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6E ED VR
- Tamron 18-400mm f/3.5-6.3 Di II VC HLD
- Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM
- Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-300mm f/3.5-6.3G ED VR
- Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-140mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR
Explore the Unexplored
Varanasi’s serpentine alleys and streets are great places for street photography. The murals, the interesting decorations, the vintage architecture, and the oddities make amazing subjects for street photos.
Expect the unexpected when in Varanasi. One of the interesting places to hang out is the Terracotta Cafe run by an Australian gentleman. This is one of the best places to unwind after a long day of sightseeing and photography.
For some exquisite local delicacies, you can explore the following:
- Kashi Chat Bhandar
- Ram Bhandar
- The Blue Lassi shop
If you are visiting Varanasi in late December to early February this is what you need early in the morning – a hot cuppa tea with milk and condiments.
Tea is served in earthen cups like this, locally known as “kulhar-wali chai.“
Nearby Destinations to Explore – Sarnath
A nearby city named Sarnath is the place where Gautam Buddha delivered his first sermon after attaining enlightenment around 450 BCE. It’s a city revered by Buddhists all over the world.
Emperor Ashoka installed the Lion Capital in Sarnath to commemorate the event in 250 BCE. The Lion Capital serves as the official emblem of India with the wheel on the abacus serving as the model for the wheel on the national flag of the country.
Concluding Thoughts
As a traveler/explorer/street photographer photographing Varanasi, you have to keep an open mind and expect the unexpected. The city is a visual treat but will appeal to all your senses. It’s imbibed in spiritualism, one of the reasons that the city is visited by millions of Indians throughout the year. it can get crowded, intimidating, and yet visually stunning. So, plan your trip well and explore to your heart’s content. You will gain experiences and make images that will last you a lifetime.
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